Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Guidebook: Rumney - Rise & Shine (5.7), Bolt Line (5.8), Dung Beetle (5.8), Easy Terms (5.8), Hippo's Parade (5.8+), Lies & Propaganda (5.9), Easily Aroused (5.9+), Egg McMeadows (5.10a)


Meadows / Parking Lot Wall

Approach: From the main parking lot, if heading to the Meadows first, walk to the far end of the lot (past the kiosk if walking from the toilets and / or fee station), and head straight up the path. The path will come out at the left side of the Meadows. For the Parking Lot Wall, head up the path directly behind the kiosk. A path connects both walls at the top. The approach is less than a couple of minutes each way.

Routes below are listed from left to right, first by climbing area and then by route. All routes noted are bolted with bolted anchors at the top and require only a 60m rope to go up and down. Please do not top-rope through the anchors. Lowering through them when finished is acceptable. The number of bolts listed does not include the anchor.

Meadows (Left End): Far left end of the Meadows, which is where the path at the far left end of the parking lot ends up. The two routes below are on the right side of this section of the Meadows.

Dung Beetle
(with draws, not rope)
Dung Beetle (5.8) - Four bolts: Second farthest right-hand climb before the broken rock section that heads up to the right, and on the right-hand edge of the roof section above near the top. Head straight up to the first bolt, then step left and follow that straight up to the base of the roof. Exit right on good holds up and out to the right. Depending on height, it may be necessary to clip the anchors at anchor-height.

Easy Terms
(with rope, not climber)
Easy terms (5.8) - Four Bolts: The farthest right climb just before the broken rock section that heads up to the right. Take the path of least resistance to the top. The crux is at about the second bolt. Most people go right here.

Meadows (Center): The center section of the Meadows is accessed by heading up the small scramble / broken rock section to the right from the left end, or heading left along the path from the Parking Lot Wall. The Center section has a dip in the path between its two ends, and there are quite a few huge boulders on the path across from the climbing.

Hippo's Parade
Hippo's Parade (5.8+) - Five Bolts: Find the groove just up and in the rock a bit to the left of Lies & Propaganda. There is a crack to the left of the short arete that makes the stem-like start. Climb the short arete and head straight up to a nice rest just right and below the overhanging section. Step left into the overhang (crux), and power through, fading back up right to the anchors.

Lies & Propaganda
Lies & Propaganda (5.9) - Seven Bolts: On the arete at the top of the hill on the left side of the cliff. Start in the white(ish) broken rock section and head right for the next few bolts. From there, follow the bolts up to the nice ledge about 3/4 of the way up. From the ledge, either finish straight up through the overhanging section or step right around the arete and finish on the slab on the right.

Bolt Line
Bolt Line (5.8) - Seven Bolts: Just left of a left-facing corner / flake trad climb, starting below and right of a couple of low overhangs. Climb the overhang (may be height dependent), clip the first bolt, then fade up left before the bolts head straight up. The climbing eases up at the top...but so do the bolts.

Parking Lot Wall: These routes are near the peak of the hill on the left of the Parking Lot Wall area, but are more on the right / downhill side of the hill than they are on the flat top. Look for the massive flake / chimney that faces left before it cuts up to the right making what is (and probably looks like from the bottom, too) a ledge mid-way up the wall. There is a gap between the ledge and the wall at this point (about 35 feet up). This chimney is at the top of the hill.

Easily Aroused
Easily Aroused (5.9+) - Five Bolts: Near the top, just downhill to the right and the second of two routes to the right that don't go to the top of the tall end of the wall on the left, head up the blank section, finding the crux about mid-way up. Finish at the anchors near the trees.

Rise and Shine
(with climber)
Rise and Shine (5.7) - Five Bolts: About mid-way up the hill, find face that is below a left-facing corner near the top. Exit up right to the anchors after the corner.

Egg McMeadows
Egg McMeadows (5.10a) - Five Bolts: The route just left of the dirty gully, near where the hill heads up to the left. There is a small overhang about 15 feet up, and the route is right of the left-facing corner up high that is Rise and Shine. Climb straight up, to the thin, left-facing overlaps that are right of the left-facing corner. Climb through the overlaps (crux) and exit right on good holds. Head straight up to the top from there.

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