Reconnaissance in South America

The flight from Toronto to Santiago was a cold, restless twelve hours of tossing and turning in my seat.

Click here for the rest of the story over on Climbing.com. This post is about my recent trip to Chile and Argentina, and the obstacles and opportunities I found about and within the climbing community.

Great Head - Acadia

I grew up in Bar Harbor, Maine and went climbing only once while growing up. It was during one of my summer day camp outings, when I was six or seven years old, and I cried like a baby because I was so afraid of letting go of the rock. Ten feet off the ground was a long way for me then (still is a bit today). My death grip may have left a permanent impression on the rock. It was a bit embarrassing, too, because I was bragging (read: lying) to a cute counselor about how I was a great climber and had done a lot whilst living in Hawaii. She found out that it wasn't true as soon as I got to the "crux" of the climb. I'm not sure how much she liked me bragging to her after that. I didn't climb again until I "learned" in Scotland many years later (grad school), and wouldn't climb in Acadia again until I came home from school.

Even then, I haven't climbed much in my hometown. It's odd because there is so much climbing here. I just haven't had the opportunities or partners either willing to come here or living here already. When I come home, I'm usually here to visit family and go on hikes and stuff (that's what my current vacation is like). I've always wanted to explore more, and yesterday I did just that.

When I came back from school, a friend from the UK (Kevin - the gentleman with whom I learned to climb with), flew over and visited for a few weeks. The goal was to climb, a lot, and we did. We hit Otter Cliffs, Precipice and South Bubble nearly every day. But that was before the "new" Acadia guide by Jeff Butterfield came out. I'm not sure who wrote the old one, but I don't remember being able to find much information on Great Head Promontory. I knew the cliff was high, but I had always believed it was slopey from the top to the sea. I honestly thought there wasn't a spot on Great Head where one couldn't walk from the top down to the water. This is so odd because I used to help my uncle from time to time on his lobster boat. We certainly fished around Sand Beach and Great Head. I know we fished off Egg Rock Lighthouse (an island just across from Great Head), and yet I never gathered the information I was seeing: a tall, burly 100-foot tall cliff rising right out of the cold Atlantic Ocean.

I set out yesterday to find this cliff, and not get lost trying to do so (if anyone knows the Great Head trails - stop laughing. I've honestly gotten lost looking for these cliffs before. I've always ended up at Sand Beach. I can't explain it. I'm local to the area, and can't explain it). My cousin and her husband were up from Providence visiting and wanted to tag along (I've just recently found out that they have discovered climbing as well, and was going to take them out. They had to leave early that afternoon, however, so scouting was going to be it that day). Despite both of them growing up in Bar Harbor as well, neither of them had climbed in Acadia either. For certain, they had seen the climbing at Otter Cliffs, have hiked the Precipice and South Bubble (oh yeah, those rungs on South Bubble that are all rusted out mid-way up the cliff, that used to be a hiking trail. I did that for the first time with my dog when I was three or four years old. It wasn't a scary hike then, but today it looks as if it was back then). It is easy to see climbers on those cliffs because they are all high-profile locations. For one, all three are, for the most part viewable from the Park Loop Road. They are also high-visit areas. This is mainly because of the views they offer, though accessibility doesn't hurt either. Great Head, on the other hand, despite it's prominence along the coast and viewability from the Park Loop Road, isn't really as accessible. It is somewhat off the beaten trail, and the cliffs are not viewable from Sand Beach, the most common place from which to view and / or approach Great Head.

Another thing to consider is the fact that, as a kid growing up, I've always been familiar with the hike on Great Head to and from its parking lot to Sand Beach. This is because this approach to the beach is a back way in when the beach is crowded and you don't feel like paying the tolls just before the beach's entrance. In other words, the Great Head trail has always been a means to an end: getting to the beach (because who in their right mind would go swimming at Great Head?).

Anyway, we got to the Great Head parking lot and headed in. Within ten minutes we were sitting on top of the cliffs and all three of us were questioning our identities because, as I said, these cliffs have been here all along and we had no clue. But there they were, and we were rather excited to see them, even if discovering the cliffs made us feel a little like tourists, if only for a few moments.

There are three main areas to Great Head: Left Wall, Cavern and Alcove. The latter two are accessible only by rappel, and one must take care to watch the tides because the belay area is either underwater at high tide or is so damn close to being underwater that one might get washed out to see by a rouge wave (See Michael Reardon). But Left Wall seems to be pretty accessible during all tides and has quite a range of climbing (5.7-5.11). The Cavern is mostly advanced climbing with most routes being in the hard 5.10 to 5.11 range. The Alcove has some easier routes, but it is also on the harder end of the spectrum. We found that the area is mostly mixed in terms of pro; some routes are bolted, some are not and some are bolted only where needed. There are many bolts at the top of the routes for top-belaying and / or rappelling. The Left Wall is approachable by walking down the slabs to the right (if on top of the cliff facing the sea). We were amazed at what we were seeing. The routes simply looked stunning, clean and obvious.

One thing to always consider, however, is just how intimidating the rock and ocean are. Even on easy climbs, the rock always has this feel of the elements polishing it off. Stability is something I've always feared whilst climbing the sea cliffs of Acadia. Maybe, however, that's because I wasn't a very strong climber when I first and last climbed here. But the roar of the sea against the shore? That never goes away. And yes, rogue waves are common here. They do wash people out to see. It's happened many times in my lifetime. One almost feels better climbing than on belay. I remember belaying at Otter Cliffs for the first time with one eye on my climber and another on the waves crashing behind me, and that was at low tide when the waves were a good twenty feet away from the base of the cliff. Great Head is much more intimidating than Otter Cliffs are, so understand that you've been warned.

In any case, no climbing for me this week, but I'm glad I got out to scout and see the routes. I've been doing a bit of that lately, and it feels good. I feel as if I'm taking another step toward advancing my climbing skills. I'm not sure what it means now that I'm taking day or side trips to scout crags and not climb them, but I'm happy with the development. I hope to be climbing Great Head for the first time soon.

Another Weekend Blown - But Good Scouting Results

Damn! This weekend provided near perfect conditions for getting outside in general, but I haven't climbed in about a week-and-a-half because of this stupid contusion on my thumb. I keep telling myself that I'm just resting up so that I can hit the Gunks this weekend, but I'm not sure how well I'm going to do. The thumb feels fine and fairly well-rested, but earlier today I walked out of my work area and went to open a latched door handle and felt a sharp pain shoot up my thumb. The odd part is that the contusion is on the outer part of the thumb and I pressed down on the latch with the bottom part of my thumb. Does that mean I have more wrong than initially thought? Here's hoping the answer is "no".

I still made it outside this weekend, however. I wanted to get out and explore / scout a local climbing area that I had not been to before. It is called Black and White Rocks and is in the Fellsway park just north of Boston. I had a very nice hike checking the different places out. It was warm, sunny and I saw nearly no one else on the trails. I like solitude sometimes. It really helps to clear my mind of the stresses I've been dealing with lately. I also liked that I was able to see a crag first before actually climbing it. I found most of the crags in this area, and was able to find most of the routes as well. Next time I go, I'll know what to do and where to go. That way I'll save from setting up and will actually get to climb.

Below is what I wrote up on my climbing group -

These crags are a mixed bag of good climbing, poor belay positioning and ease /
difficulty in finding. This area is not made for climbers as, say Crow Hill or
Rumney are, but there are some worthy climbs off the East Fellsway road that are
worth the afternoon jaunt if one gets a chance.

You may be able to set topropes on some of the crags (such as crags 1-4), but
others will require trad lead gear (crag 2, 3 and 6 most likely). I would
consider crags 2, 3 and 4 as highball boulders more than anything.

There are several crags, some of which I have not been able to find, but the ones
I was able to find were a mix of excellent easy to moderate routes with a few,
difficult-to-find harder routes. I'm only going to break down the crags that I
have visited. For more information, consult the Boston Rocks guide book. However,
I believe my directions for finding the crags are a bit easier that what the
book offers.

There is also a substantial amount of bouldering in the area. Just walk along
the main paths and keep an eye out for small outcrops. I'm sure you'll find
something, somewhere.

DIRECTIONS:

The easiest way to all the crags is to take exit 32 off I-93 and head on 60
East. Drive about 1 mile until you get to Fellsway East, then take a left. By
the way, you'll come to Fellsway West first, and it will not have a sign saying
that it is Fellsway West. Fellsway East is a bit down the road from Fellsway
West, and it has a sign, albeit a small one. Just in case you're wondering, no,
Fellsway West is not just the westbound side of a road. Both Fellsway East and
Fellsway West are roads with traffic going in both directions. The difference
is that Fellsway East is literally east of Fellsway West.

In any case, follow Fellsway East for about two miles. You'll pass a cemetary
on the left and will go uphill. The road will change from two lanes on either
side to one lane on either side. Soon after, there will be a parking lot on the
left. Just down the road from gates #52 and #53. Park there and walk back up
the road whence you came and cross the street toward gate #52. It will be
directly across from Gate #53.

The Rock Circuit Trail goes directly up to the right of the gate (the trail is
marked with white marks on trees and / or rocks). This is the easiest way to
get to all crags. It may not be the fastest way to get to some of the crags,
but it is the easiest. If you follow this path, eventually you will come to
a "fire road" (more of an overgrown grassy path). Take a left. A minute or so
down the road and you will find, if you are looking, on the right, a sign
facing in the opposite direction that says Pinnacle Rock. Take this path to
Crag 1. You may also see before taking a left on the fire road a sign for the
Pinnacle Path to the right. Don't take this.

CRAGS 1-5:

I visited crags 1-4 because they were very easy to find; so much so that upon
seeing them I did not actually believe I had found them. There is one trail
that is called the Rock Circuit Trail that pretty much leads you to crags 1-5,
with Crags 5 and 54 (don't ask) a bit off the trail. As I noted, Crag 1 is on
the Pinnacle Rock trail off the Rock Circuit Trail.

Crag 1 is probably the best of all the crags that I saw. There are clear lines
all over the face. It rises about 40 feet with easy climbs to the left and
harder climbs on the right (near the small roof at the bottom). It is probably
toprope ready, but I'd be prepared to have to lead the routes. There is decent
protection on most routes.

Crags 2-4 are easily found by heading back out the Pinnacle Rock path back
towardthe fire road. Once at the fire road, across the way will be the
continuation of the Rock Circuit Road. Follow this, and when you get to the top
of a small hill, that will be the top of Crag 2. Keep on the path and, at the
bottom of that small hill you'll have two choices: keep following the white
markings up the sloped rock face in front, or head on the fire road to the
right. If you head to the right, you'll see the Crag 2 on your right. Also, if
you follow a hidden path a bit to the right from there you'll find some more
climbs, but these don't appear to be apart of the crags listed, so I would
avoid them unless you find out that these are, in fact, Crag 2. I don't think
this is very toprope friendly.

After taking a right on the fire road, and keeping Crag 2 to your right, there
is another path that is straight ahead, that will lead you to Crag 4. This may
have toprope options.

If, instead of going right to Crag 2 or straight to Crag 4, you take a left,
that will lead you to Crag 3. Oddly, if you don't take a right onto the fire
road from the top of Crag 2, and go up the slab directly in front (following
the white paint marks on the rock), this will lead you to the top of Crag 3.
When coming back down the other side of Crag 3, you'll intersect with the left
hand turn off the fire road had you taken a right at the fire road instead
(confused yet?).

All of these crags are very easily found, however, as they are all pretty much
in the same area. All crags also appear to be pretty ease face or slab climbs
of about 20-30 feet in height. I thought Crag 4 offered the best climbing of
the three.

For access to Crags 5 and 54, you'll have to consult Boston Rocks. I was too
dehydrated to search for them, and I had spent a considerable amount of time
searching for Crag 6, which, in the end, I managed to find (except for the
curious fixed pin that Boston Rocks talks about. It may have been removed).

CRAG 6:
Crag 6 can be reached one of two ways. The first is off Goodyear Avenue, as
Boston Rocks suggests. This is a very easy way to approach the crag, but I
think the drive to Goodyear Ave may be difficult for those who don't know
Malden that well. Also, the parking there is not really set aside for the
Fellsway. It is more residential, and parking is sparce.

The other way to reach Crag 6 is to actually continue on the Rock Circuit Trail.
It is about 25-30 minutes from the parking lot used to access crags 1-5. You
will need to have some decent eyes to follow this trail. If you are lucky,
you'll see all the white markings. If not, you'll get lost as I did. Still, if
you follow the white markings, Crag 6 is not that hard to find. At some point,
you'll come to two hills that will offer views of the town below (I'm not sure
if this is Melrose or Malden). Each hill will essentially be bald rock and both
hills will offer a view of what appears to be a school with athletic fields
attached. On top of the first hill, the fields will only be partially visible,
but you will feel as if you are on top of a large crag. Even when you walk to
the edge, you'll think that you've found Crag 6. Alas, you are not there yet.
These cliffs that you see are more high-ball bouldering than anything else.

Continue on the path until you come to another fire road. Take a brief left and
you'll see the Rock Circuit Trail continue up the hill a bit on the right.
Follow this trail up to the left to the top of the other bald rock area. Here,
you'll have a much better view of the athletic fields as well as a residential
area (probably the neighborhood near Goodyear Ave). This is the top of Crag 6.

To get to Crag 6, follow the white marks back down the other side of the top of
the hill. Again, I can't stress enough that the white marks go to the left of
the top of the hill, not the right. If you go to the right, you'll find the
crag eventually, but it won't be nearly as obvious or easy.

You'll walk downhill a slight ways until you get to a point where there is a
sort of rock step just before where the path levels off and becomes a dirt
path. Immediately after that step, look to your right and you'll see a vague
path that leads into a small clearing. Walk only about 20 feet into the
clearing and look for a path that somewhat hugs the rocks to the right. Don't
follow the path that goes downhill, as this will lead you away from the crag.
Once you follow the path, you'll see the bottom of the crag very easily. At the
end of this small trail, you should easily find the routes that are listed on
the left of the crag in Boston Rocks.

The great thing about Crag 6? It is about 80 feet tall. Another great thing
about it? At the top of the crag looking down you'll say, "wow, this looks like
great rock!" The bad thing about it? At the bottom you'll look up into the
various trees and ask "where did all that great climbing I saw at the top go?"
From the bottom, Crag 6 doesn't look like much. But there is substantial
climbing above where you can see.