Friday, July 06, 2007

Felt Strong Last Night - May Have Flashed First 5.11

Boo-hiss to the threat of rain on the days I'd prefer to be outside, but that's only in general. Sometimes, blessings occur that turn things around without knowing why. While my climbing has not suffered at all this spring and summer (in fact, I think I've improved quite a bit), I haven't felt particularly ambitious of late; a fact that I attribute to several non-climbing stresses that have been dragging me down the past couple of months.

But last night proved to be a good night at the gym. Firstly, it was busy, and while people might think that is bad thing, it really wasn't. You see, on busy nights, people need to climb whatever is available. As it turned out, what was available were hard routes that I hadn't climbed yet. Almost all of these routes were on the prow in the back of the gym.

First, there was a new 5.11 that looked juggy and balancy at the same time. If I hadn't looked at it first, it could have been my first 5.11 onsite, but I had to settle for the flash instead (sigh). It was a very nice route where all the proper holds were there, but I can't say for certain that I have, in fact, flashed my first 5.11. Even though that was the given grade, I have doubts as to whether or not it really is that hard. I think it should have gone 5.10b/c. Yes, it was balancy, but it wasn't very difficult to navigate or stay on the wall.

After that I ran up a couple of moderate routes that happened to be open next to the 5.11 before turning the corner and spying a 5.10b/c that goes up the tallest section of the prow. Having done the 5.11 around the corner, which was a shorter route and less overhanging, I felt that the 10b/c would be a harder challenge as I drew near the end of my night (it was something like climb #6 or 7 - almost all above 5.10b - so I was kind of tired). It was a challenge, but I got up it on one take near where there is a series of really pumpy Gastons going up through the overhang. As I came down, I felt that I could pretty easily lead this and the 5.11 I was on earlier. I may even go back tonight to see if I can lead them (though two nights of climbing in a row almost never works for me, so if I do go tonight, I bet I flail).

Anyway, after that I jumped on a 5.12 comp route that was left up after the last comp a month ago. I was pretty tired by the end of the night, but I got up it, albeit with several falls and takes. I think I can do this route, but it will take some time and work. The thing I like about comp routes is that they are so well set that the moves and feet are all there. What makes them hard is actually moving through the sequence. They are refreshing climbs because they actually feel they grade yet the moves and sequence are pretty obvious at the same time.

On another note, I plan on joining a regular gym for the first time in a couple of years. I'd really like to improve my core strength, and I just feel I need to hit the gym in order to do that well; or at least do it in a way that I am familiar with.

1 comment:

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