Descriptions of a few of the routes in Acadia National Park in Maine.
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Approach: From the main parking area at Otter Cliffs, cross the street to the walled path that leads to cliffs. Take a sharp left at the end of that path to another well-worn path that parallels the road but goes in the opposite direction. After about two minutes of walking, find the climber's path on the right (it'll be a short, steep step down). Walk down that and sign at the registry before getting to the climbing area.
Once at the top of the cliffs, Wonderwall is to the left (where the staples are) just before the Adair Wall, Guillotine Alcove is straight ahead with the Outer Face just to the right of that, the Sea Stack is to the right (the chimney is easy to find), the Amphitheater is right of the Sea Stack, with the next cliffs to the right being the Mermaid Wall and the Sea Cave. All of these require being lowered down to the bottom. The Plaque Wall is around the corner to the right and can be accessed from the top of the other cliffs, though you'll still likely need to walk back up the path to set up a toprope here.
Otter Cliffs is best climbed when the tide is going out, but that is not always necessary if care is taken to avoid the surf. All climbs noted here can be climbed with a single 60m rope, are single pitch, and require gear to set up anchors at the top.
Outer Face: Most people build anchors at the top and belay from the top, though some of the routes can be led.
|Deep Blue Sea|
Guillemot Crack (5.6): On the right side of the Sea Stack, where the Sea Stack meets the Amphitheater, and just left (if looking up from below) of the chimney on the left-side of the Sea Stack, stem the start of the chimney to a nice ledge, staying on the arete and in the crack system to the left of the chimney.
Plaque Wall: Some routes can be led here, but the route described below is best top-roped.
Approach: From the park loop road, park about 100 yards or so past the Mt. Champlain / Precipice hiking trail parking lot (yes, the hiking trail starts in a different spot than where the climber's trail is). Follow the path through the woods for a few minutes until the path meets what is the Lower Wall (please sign in at the registry before getting to this point). Take a left up the talus and follow it back right to where it meets the Center Wall.
Many of the climbs here have more than one pitch, and require gear anchors, but there are bolted anchors at the top of many of the climbs. A single, 60m rope is plenty for descending.
Center Wall: This wall is the wall that one first gets to immediately after the talus field.
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Approach: From where the path that leads up through the talus field meets the Center Wall, head left about 25 feet to find a blocky groove with a few trees at the base.
Pitches one and two can easily be combined. Rope drag will probably make combining pitches two and three difficult.
|Story of O P2|
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Descent: Rap twice straight below with a 60m rope or rap to the bottom with two 60m ropes.
Right Wall: Where the path through the talus field meets the Center Wall, head up to the right and find a set of exposed stairs that continue straight back away from what is the Stairs Alcove area. At the top, head left, following the path (which is actually a part of the Precipice hiking trail) to the cliff. The far right side, just right of a finger-like block sticking straight up in the air, is Wafer Step (5.5).
All routes mentioned below are single pitch routes that can be done easily with a 60m rope. All three have bolted anchors at the top and can be descended with a 60m rope.
Climb the crack to a nice stance that is just left of a left-diagonal fading, upward-facing flake. Step right into the flake and follow that to the top where, upon standing up, there will be a thin seam. Climb the seam (crux) to the horizontals and finish up right on easy terrain and bolted anchors at the back of a large ledge.
|Recollections of Pacifica|
Climb the easy ledges about 10 feet right of the offwidth with a chockstone in it. Gain the slab above and traverse right past the pods to the steep corner. Climb the corner up to the left (crux) and gain the low-angle arete to a stance. Follow the left-leaning crack to another stance, then fade up right to a bolted anchor above.