Camden, Maine - The Rampart
Approach: Find the carriage road trailhead (small, brown side with a brown gate blocking the road) at about 184 / 185 Mountain Street (Rt 52) in Camden, ME, and park along the side of the road without blocking the gate. Hike in along the blue blazed carriage trail for about 15-20 min, crossing two wooden bridges. Then cross a log bridge (you'll have to wind back to the right to find the trail again). Find the cairn about 100 yards uphill from the log bridge and take that trail to the left. The climber's trail will bring you out at a bunch of boulders near Arrete (5.10b) on the right and Dreamweaver (5.10c) on the obvious prow / arrete to the left.
All routes in this post can be safely descended by either lowering or rapping with a single 60m rope. The routes in here are described left-to-right when facing the cliff.
Fireman's Ladder (5.5): Climb straight up the large chimney / crack that is made from large, stacked boulders. At the ledge on top of the chimney, step across the chasm (crux) and into the crack on the other side. Climb straight up from there to the tree with a chain.
Descent: It is easier to lower down on the right side of the jutting boulders. This descent comes down Natural History (5.7-).
Start on the left side of the sharp arrete and climb the four bolts on that face (5.9 climbing). Below the fourth bolt, traverse right to the arrete and pull around it to a slab that leads up to a very comfy rest ledge below the next two bolts. Clip both bolts from the ledge, traverse left to jug that you'll match on, swing your feet left around the arrete to a triangular pod, reach up left to a jug on the back of the horn. Then move up to a deceptively nice jug about 18 inches above the horn. Clip the final bolt and finish at the anchors.
Rope management is important when coming around the arrete on the upper section of the climb. Make sure you're feet are in the right place so that you don't flip up-side down if you fall. Also, if you do fall, and if the rope is in the right place with regards to your feet, make sure the rope doesn't drag across that first matching jug.
Ariel (5.11d) - One Pitch - Sport - Bolted Anchor - 75 feet: The upper headwall that is right of Dream Weaver, start in the blocky corner below a tree. Climb up left past the tree and find the first bolt on the slab. Step up, and follow the bolts first to the left, then traverse right, and head straight up to the anchor above the final bolt (some folks continue past the final bolt to the right before heading up).
Arrete (5.10b) - One pitch - Sport - Bolted Anchor - 40 feet: start is the same as Out of Gas, but head right past the crack to the first bolt. Follow the bolts out right above and left of the arrete, and finish on the slab below the anchors. (the photo above under Out of Gas shows the climber on Arrete)