Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Guidebook: Gunks - Maria (5.6+), Arrow (5.8), Ant's Line (5.9)

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Maria (5.6+) - Three Pitches - Trad - Gear anchor

- Approach
: Take third marked trail and head right where it splits. The second pitch of Maria is the massive left-facing corner on the right. The route starts well to the left of that, however.

- Pitch One (5.5) - Trad - Gear anchor - 80 feet: Climb a crack that about 10 feet left of a short right-facing corner and about 40 feet left of the obvious left-facing corner that makes Maria's second pitch. Climb it until above the corner and begin to look for the easiest way to start the traverse right. Traverse right and up to the base of the large corner. Be sure to back up the anchor that may already be there.

- Pitch Two (5.6+) - Trad - Gear anchor - 90 feet: Climb the corner to the ledge above.

- Pitch Three (5.6+) - Trad - Gear anchor - 50 feet: Climb the short left-facing corner to the top and then the right-facing corner to the triangular roof. Step awkwardly left (crux)and pull the the roof to the crack. Climb the crack to the top.

- Descent: Walk left on shallow path (watch out for the soft edge) for about 25 feet to where you can scramble down rocks on the left and down to the continuation of the upper path. Walk another 15 feet or so to a faint path on the left. This path goes to the rocky edge. A bolted anchor is around the corner to the left (beware of loose rocks on the edge). Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground. There are bolts to the right (you'll have to look for them a bit) and that may allow you to rap with one rope.

Arrow (5.8) - Two pitches - Trad - Bolted anchors

- Approach
: Take the 11th trail after the East Trapps Connector Trail that goes down to the road on the right. At the top of the trail, head up left to the top of a series of boulders that are left of a long left-facing corner.

- Pitch One (5.6) - Trad - Bolted Anchor - 100 Feet: Begin on the face below a small right facing corner. Climb up to and through the corner, the face above the corner, and the next right-facing corner above that. Follow the path of least resistance up the face to the ledge. Bolted anchors are to the right.

- Pitch Two (5.8) - Trad - Bolted Anchor - Feet: Climb through the notch (the arrow) at the overhanging section to the left of the bolts. Follow the face and the bolts up to the top (fading up right as you go).

- Descent: Rap all the way to the bottom with two 6om ropes or rap twice with one rope (the second rap off the bolts at the top of the first pitch).

Annie Oh (5.8) - Two pitches (only the second pitch is shown due to the first pitch having not been climbed yet) - Trad - Bolted anchors

- Approach
: ONCE ON THE GT LEDGE -> walk left from the bolted anchor at the top of Arrow's first pitch (see above) to a series of broken blocks. This should be above a large tree with slings on it (this tree makes the top of the first pitch of Annie Oh).

- Pitch Two (5.8) - Trad - Bolted anchor - 100 feet: Climb the left-facing corner to the left-facing flakes. Move up to an upward-looking flake (scary!) and traverse past it to the right, using the face holds on the right to move up. Move up and left to a notch / groove near the top and figure out the fun finishing move that will lead just to the right of the overhanging bulge. Finish at the bolts on top.

- Descent: It is best to make two raps despite two 60m ropes being long enough to reach the bottom. Rap off the bolts at the top and either rap off the tree anchor at the top of the first pitch, or walk right along the ledge to the bolts at the top of the first pitch of Arrow.

Ant's Line (5.9) - One pitch - Trad - Bolted anchor

- Approach
: Take the third path after the Andrew Boulder up to the obvious dihedral that is straight ahead (and around to the right of a small, low-hanging roof). There are a couple of leaning boulders in this area that make the belay and gear storage area feel like a "room." The route starts on a ledge just beyond a large tree.

- Pitch One (5.9) - Trad - Bolted anchor - feet: Climb up to the ledge about six feet off the ground, then climb up to the roof and pull around it to the left (first crux). Follow the corner up to the triangular roof (crux) and follow the jugs to the top, exiting to the bolts on the left.

- Descent: Rap with one rope to the bottom off the bolts.

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