Comps, Climbing and the Adirondacks

Some weekends are such a blur of activity that one never really understands that activities were partaken in until well after the fact. This weekend was one of those weekends.

Saturday - Got up early and headed down to New Bedford with "Cody" to judge at the Regional Comps held at Carabiners Gym. It was an easy ride down and I was quite surprised at the gym itself: very tall walls with not a space in the place wasted. Nearly every inch, even in the middle where the only thing to attach a climbing wall to is the ceiling, seemed to have a climbing hold on it. It was an impressive site to see. One thing that this gym does too is use the same colored holds for one specific route. This is primarily what the European gyms do, while the American gyms tend to use tape to mark the routes. Granted, using tape is more cost efficient (one doesn't need to buy a million holds of one color to make one route, and one has greater flexibility in which holds to choose), but tape also falls off and, thus, makes the routes harder (and maybe more frustrating over time). One answer to this for "taped" gyms is continuously put up new routes, which my gym (MetroRock) does and Carabiners apparently does not (we talked to a couple of staffers and they said the comp routes would stay up because they really hadn't had new routes in a couple of years - unbelievable!!!). Still, I like both styles and see the benefit of each, but gyms have to continuously change the routes over. As one famous climber at MetroRock once told me (and I'm paraphrasing here), "the routes are the product. Without quality routes, you won't have a sustainable, dependable cash flow." Can't disagree there.

One thing I'd like to point out, however, is the ridiculous requirement that some gyms have regarding the need to use GriGris to belay and for the belayor to be tied in while belaying. First off, teaching climbers to use a GriGri to belay is akin to teaching a kid to do math using a calculater. The answer is going to be the same, but the kid never learns how the math is actually done (carrying the one, for example). This sets a poor precedent for these climbers who start at the gym and then move to climbing outside. Not only is it important for them to learn proper, basic belaying techniques, but it is also important that they learn that a GriGri is self-locking while other devices are not (In my opinion, it is always best to learn the most basic method first and then trade up to more "luxurious" practices). Going from a GriGri to an ATC is probably not as safe as going from an ATC to a GriGri.

Also, as I mentioned above, Carabiners requires the belayor to lock into an anchor, presumably to keep the belayor from going up in the air when the climber falls. This is the most bizarre practice of all. For one, by being anchored, the belayor has limited ability to shift the rope away from the climber. Sure, if the anchor is long enough then the belayor can move about more freely than if the rope is not long enough. But take that a step further and understand that no anchor means even more freedom. But I'm sure that the main concern is that if a lighter-weighing belayor catches a heavier climber then the belayor will go up in the air. This, however, is a good thing. Whenever the belayor goes up in the air, it means the climber has had a softer landing. I know, this isn't as much of a factor on toprope, but it is on lead. I think these types of requirements are clearly pushed by insurance companies to "limit" liability. But let's ask the question, unless the insurance adjuster is a climber, and the insurance company has climbing-specific policies in place, can the insurance company make the best decision with it's limited experience? My guess is no; they can't.

As a result, "Cody" and I decided to use our own belaying methods to belay each other on the comps routes during our downtime. Not only was this more comfortable for us, but we think it was safer because it allowed us to do what we know best. In climbing, in my opinion, you don't take risks that you don't have to take (it may be why I'm stuck at 5.11 in the gym and 5.9 outside, but whatever). When one can climb safely and have fun, then that is better than climbing just for fun.

The comp itself was pretty fun. The routes were long and pumpy and I think the route setting was outstanding. Only one kid flashed the hardest route on the wall (maybe 5.12d) and there wasn't a crux section where a bunch of kids got stuck. Everyone came off at the point where their ability took them. It was really quite impressive. Anyway, at one point "Cody" looked at me and said that she had to be back in Boston by 630pm. I looked at my watch at it was 637pm. Oops. We rushed back and I think she made it to where she needed to be later that evening.

Sunday - I went to the gym and met up "Philly" and, as it turned out, "Geneva", who was flying out that night to visit family back home in Switzerland (oh how I wish I were going with him. I'd love to go back and climb again in Switzerland, even if to climb "Le Miroir" in memory of my friend Mat). I wasn't feeling overly strong, but these guys pushed me. There is a 5.11b/c (I think that's the grade, it may be 11d) that I've been struggling on, but I got up it with one fall at the crux at the top (both "Philly" and "Geneva" climbed it clean for the first time - "Geneva" flashed it on TR). That was the first time with only one fall, so I was pleased with that effort. Right after that we jumped on a 5.12a that "Philly got about half-way up before coming down. "Geneva" finished the route, but not without a few falls. It's too bad because I think he could have climbed it clean had he not gone to Switzerland. The route will surely be gone by the time he gets back (there is a divisional comp at MetroRock - divisional is the round after regional - in June and the 12a is a comp route from a few weeks ago that will need to be stripped to make way for new comp routes). I managed to get about two-third of the way up before coming down. I was truly toast at that point. My next climb I couldn't even get on a route that I normally do well on until the crux near the top. I didn't climb much, but I was pushed and climbed relatively well. I was pleased with the effort.

Adirondacks - I'm supposed to be heading to the Adirondacks with a large group this weekend. It will be my first time visiting the "Dacks", let alone climb there. I've been to the "Gunks" before, and that was fun, but I've heard that while the "Gunks" are sandbagged, the "Dacks" are even worse. Looks like I'll be climbing 5.7s for the weekend. Still, I'm looking forward to it. It will be nice to get away (I seriously need to - my mental health is straining at the moment) and finally go on a climbing trip with friends where I have little or no responsibility. My only concern is that I'm supposed to stay with "Jello" and I haven't been able to get in touch with him. "TD" has offered a tent, but I'm not sure I can get my car onto the campsite (there may be too many people). I don't need this extra stress, but it's OK. In the end, it's all for a good cause.

Hopefully, I'll have some great pics to post next week when I get back. Until then, have fun...

Adult National Open Championships

Well, last year I had the pleasure of being a judge at the Junior National Climbing Championships in Boston. The kids who won went on to climb for Team USA in China and the World Cup Championships.

This year I will have the privalege of judging the Adults. I don't know where the adult World Cup competition is, but the national open is in Boston this year.

Metro Rock has only been around for a couple of years, but already it has hosted both the Adult and Junior National Championships plus numerous bouldering and difficulty regional comps. They have really come a long way in a very short period of time.

National Junior Climbing Championships

What - National Junior Climbing Championships
When - July 1-4, 2005
Where - MetroRock Climbing Gym in Everett, MA
Who - Ages 9-19 years old qualifiers. The winners represent the USA at the World Cup in China in August.
My Role - Judge - my name is actually on there twice!

Check out the results and follow the kids as they go on to the World Cup Competition In Beijing!

Here are just a few photos of the event -

National Climbing Competition

So I have decided to finally try and enter to climbing community world beyond my little circle of friends. I noticed on Wednesday that Metrorock is going to be hosting the National Adult and Junior Difficulty and Speed climbing competitions over the July 4th weekend. Apparently, the winners will be going to Beijing in August for the World Cup of Climbing competition. Anyway, the sign stated that they were looking for volunteers to work the event either as a judge, belayer or as a roving "miscellaneous" volunteer. I thought to myself, "this sound pretty darn cool," and offered my services to help that weekend.

When I offered, the guy who was helping to set up this weekend's regional competition asked if I had ever judged before. When I told him that I had not he recommended that I come by Saturday to learn how to judge and help belay. That is precisely what I did and really had a good time doing it.

This competition was for all ages up to age 19 and the 14-15 year-olds dominated the routes. I was surprised to learn that the easiest route, the first of three with the second two being leads, began at least at 5.10c or above. That killed any ambition I have for competing. But to watch these kids flash these routes (all were onsited) was simply amazing. I was thoroughly impressed.

I was really surprised, however, by the fact that I felt I was at a Little League game. I mean, except for a few of us, most of the volunteers were the parents of the competitors. I don't know why this surprised me, but I guess it was because the image I have always had in my mind of the climbing community was not one that represented supportive parents. Climbing to me has always seemed to be a bit of a loner sport, where you are really challenging yourself even if you are working with a team or partner. I guess maybe that was so early on in climbing history, though I am sure that many kids become involved through their parents' introduction of the sport, and even those who were not introduced probably had some support. But with the growth of climbing gyms, the safety of climbing and access has allowed for the sport to become more family oriented. I don't think it is unfair to say that there are now "climber" moms out there driving their minivans to and from the gym during the middle of the week. The whole idea is truly bizarre considering the dangerous nature of climbing and the subculture that exists within it (a subculture, by the way, that dominates the image of climbing, at least in my opinion).

Anyway, I had a pretty fun time and met some people that I would like to see and talk to again. I enjoyed this aspect of the climbing community and will likely continue to volunteer at such events. God love life's little surprises.