A Climber's Life

A Hodgepodge of Climbers in Southeastern Brasil

2011-12-20T11:55:00.000-05:00

Looking out toward Curitiba (Photo by Nivea Bona) When I first landed in South America in December of 2010, I settled in Santiago de Chile, the Chilean capital city so walled in by the giant Andes mountain range to the east that peaks often felt as if they’d topple right down on top of the city. I chose to live in Chile in part due to the quality and abundance of climbing there. But as the

Getting Psyched (Out)

2011-10-06T10:39:00.000-05:00

If you are like me, you know how much the idea of a climb can grow and subsequently fester in your mind. Whether it is a route you have wanted to do for years or a new climb with a daunting reputation, you know how drastically expectation can color a climb once you finally work your way up to getting on the darn thing. I don’t care if it is an r/x rated trad headpiece or a pumpy sport route with

First Time Out in Brasil

2011-09-06T23:04:00.001-05:00

Anhangava The weather never cooperated in the South American autumn. It was cold and rainy from Easter to the end of May, getting cooler by the week. And I was busy, too, of course, engaging in a Brazilian romance and wondering where it was going to take me. To the mountains during that six-week voyage it did not, so I flew home to the US and flailed at Rumney, vacationed in Acadia, ripped

A Farewell to the 'Gunks

2011-08-06T17:21:00.002-05:00

Waiting my turn for Shockley's Roof (5.6) This was probably my last trip to the 'Gunks in what is likely to be a few years. Kind of sad about it, to be honest, but excited, too. This has been the summer of "vacation" climbing, as one of my friends coined over our recent trip to Acadia. Ever since my disaster of a Rumney trip in June, I've been hoping to simply get out and enjoy the day with

Running over kittens at Cannon

2011-06-28T09:54:00.000-05:00

(Apologies for the lack of photos. We simply didn't take any) It wasn't long ago when Cannon was a place of nightmares for me. Three rain storms, an electrical storm, a brutally shortsighted hike to the summit, and a sprained ankle had crushed me time and time again. Don't get me wrong, I have made it to the top successfully several times, including on lead under difficult circumstances, but

Gracias a la Vida

2011-04-01T13:33:00.028-05:00

Nivea Her eyes were as wide as a bucket of tears when I said I was going to be away that week. Henry on the offwidth Photo by Catalina Mekis “All week?” “When do you leave?” It was next Sunday, early, and Henry, Armando, and Catalina had planned to come home late that same day. Maybe I can come home early, I thought, and Henry confirmed that the hardest part was getting there:“Getting back is

Guidebook: Espolones de San Gabriel - Espelon (5.7), La Raya (5.8)

2011-01-09T10:57:00.001-05:00

Espolones de San Gabriel Approach: From Santiago head to Cajon de Maipo toward San Gabriel. By car, get directions in advance. By the Metro, get to the Los Mercedes subway stop. Head upstairs and grab a Collectivo (fixed-price taxi) to San Gabriel (as of Jan 2011, about 2500 pesos). The ride takes about an hour (maybe a bit less). Be sure to ask the driver to stop at the last bridge / stream

Viva Chile!

2011-01-03T15:57:00.003-05:00

The stream below us Less than four weeks had gone by since I had first arrived and I was rushing to meet "Red" downstairs. Two days prior he had said on the phone that in order to beat the Santiago crowd we'd have to leave early, which was fine to me because I wanted to beat the hot sun as best as we could. I figured he'd have me meet at the end of one of the subway lines at 7am so that we

Return to Whiteside

2010-12-11T22:53:00.002-05:00

High up on Traditions For an entire week prior, the feeling in my stomach alternated from queasy fear to unbridled excitement. It was finally happening. I was going back to Whiteside but, this time, to the imposing Southeast Face, an eight hundred foot quartz diorite monstrosity known for its bold run outs. “SF” had set up the plans. We would leave from Athens Saturday night, camp on nearby

The New (All About Commitment)

2010-11-06T14:00:00.002-05:00

The New River from Snake Buttress My speedometer cruised at the speed limit on my first West Virginian Deliverance road despite feeling uncomfortably five-miles too fast. The hilly, single-lane road was the short way to Fayetteville according to my GPS, and since I was trying to save money, and since the shortcut was only five minutes longer by time, I took the road less travelled, which

Getting With The Times

2010-10-29T11:47:00.002-05:00

"Blow" on V3's P3 (5.7) My hands were cold. The tips on my fingers were turning white, just as they always do when the late autumn shade hits at the end of the day and the rock swings from motherly warm to freezing beast. I was only a little nervous and very excited. Unsure is probably the best way to describe it. My heart was racing and my head was calm. A girl, the second in her party,

In the Shadow of Giants

2010-10-07T19:52:00.001-05:00

The North Side of Looking Glass It was a cliff I had only seen in vague pictures. Random snapshots showed immaculate, laser-cut granite. Daring aid lines, hard free climbs, the North Side of Looking Glass has both. This six hundred foot, overhanging shield of rock has been toying with me for the last few years. It stands as an

Twelve Days in the Northeast

2010-09-30T15:13:00.001-05:00

Hi folks, The most recent trip report is posted here on Climbing.com. I'm no poet, but I took a shot at writing a poem anyway. Because of the way the text wraps around the photos, it doesn't quite look as I submitted it, but that's OK. I really have no clue if it's any good or not. Here is the beginning to give you an idea: Upon the passing of Hurricane Earl; he flew in just before we drove

Confidence is Key

2010-09-19T13:19:00.005-05:00

I had grand plans for that day, more accurately, delusions of grandeur. “Fearless Leader” and I headed off to Foster Falls, Chattanooga's sport climbing hub, but I had more than just a few quick draws in my pack. Influenced by John Sherman's article “Its Big, Its Bad, Its Retro-Trad”, I had lugged my entire rack with me. I was going to show sport climbing who was boss, or something like that. I

Consecutive Days and I'm Ready to Go?

2010-09-01T14:30:00.000-05:00

It was only a week or so before when I awoke after my first day of climbing after contracting Lyme Disease that getting out of bed was the crux of the day. I rolled my feet to the floor, stood up, and immediately felt as if a truck had hit me head on. My swim session later that day was the slowest I'd had in a couple of weeks, and I wanted to eat the house out of food. I didn't, of course, but if

Guidebook: Gunks - Baby (5.6), Blistered Toe (5.7), Filipina-Boldville Link-up (5.7), Shit Creek (5.7), Drunkard's Delight (5.8-),

2010-08-20T17:16:00.138-05:00

Baby P1 Baby (5.6) - Two pitches - Trad - Mixed anchors Approach: Take the trail up left immediately before the rescue box. Stay left at the split. Baby is the crack that comes out of the broken rock at the bottom and has a pod about 35 feet up. Pitch One (5.6) - 80 feet - Bolted anchor: Climb the broken rock up to the pod. Clear the pod (crux - a #4 camalot works really well here if you're

Review- Stone Summit Climbing Gym

2010-08-14T10:37:00.000-05:00

The Stone Summit Stone Summit is the talk of the town. Ok, maybe not the entire town, but you get the picture. Every climber I speak with, even if I haven't seen them for months, only wants to talk about one thing, Atlanta's new uber gym, the largest in America. At first I was dismissive. Despite evidence to the contrary, I prefer not to view myself as a gym climber, and I certainly don't want

Guidebook: Rumney - Rise & Shine (5.7), Bolt Line (5.8), Dung Beetle (5.8), Easy Terms (5.8), Hippo's Parade (5.8+), Lies & Propaganda (5.9), Easily Aroused (5.9+), Egg McMeadows (5.10a)

2010-08-10T08:41:00.113-05:00

Rumney Meadows / Parking Lot Wall Approach: From the main parking lot, if heading to the Meadows first, walk to the far end of the lot (past the kiosk if walking from the toilets and / or fee station), and head straight up the path. The path will come out at the left side of the Meadows. For the Parking Lot Wall, head up the path directly behind the kiosk. A path connects both walls at the top.

The Body Fights Back

2010-08-09T09:06:00.006-05:00

In summary, I got sick bad a few weeks ago on my final day in Acadia. It was Lyme disease, and I fought what I thought was a feverish flu for five days until I finally went to the emergency room in search of help. The comeback has been slow but noticeably progressive. I started with slow 30-minute swims every other day and, over the course of a couple of weeks, have built up to medium-paced 60-

Warming Up Is Hard To Do

2010-08-04T12:26:00.000-05:00

It was a trip that had been bouncing around my head since I got home from the Gunks. According the the guidebook, the North Face of Whiteside is the premier summer crag in all of North Carolina. The 5000 foot elevation, due north facing cliff sounded like a paradise compared to Athens. For the last month, the thermometer had flirted with the hundred degree mark every day without fail. Opening the

Guidebook: Acadia - Wafer Step (5.5), Deep Blue Sea (5.7), Guillemot Crack (5.6), Story of O (5.6), Bartleby (5.8), Yellow Wall (5.8), Recollections of Pacifica (5.9), Brochure Crack (5.9+)

2010-07-30T16:35:00.002-05:00

Acadia National Park Descriptions of a few of the routes in Acadia National Park in Maine. Click here for the rest of the Acadia guidebook posts. Otter Cliffs Approach: From the main parking area at Otter Cliffs, cross the street to the walled path that leads to cliffs. Take a sharp left at the end of that path to another well-worn path that parallels the road but goes in the opposite

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly - The Weird Season: Part 2

2010-07-24T15:13:00.001-05:00

The Good The Bubbles from Jordan Pond (photo by Melanie Hall) I waved good-bye to my four-year-old niece and my mom as they pulled out of the parking lot and headed to the airport and back to California. It had been a nice week with filled with lobster cookouts, skipping rocks, ice cream on the Village Green, gossip, and the laughter that comes after old ghosts are drawn out of closets long

The Weird Season: Part I

2010-07-17T14:40:00.000-05:00

CCK (5.8) If you're a regular reader then you'll remember my "retirement" post from a few weeks ago. It's silly to call it a retirement because I never was making a living as a climber, but that trip to Red Rocks did change things for me as a climber. It killed all ambition I had to challenge myself on routes, and it turned my attention to more serious matters such as writing and taking

Lack of Posts

2010-07-16T16:11:00.001-05:00

Hi Folks, Just wanted to send an update on things here at the blog. There haven't been many posts lately and there are few reasons for that: 1) I had family obligations for a fair bit in June; 2) I've also been working on some larger projects and; 3) lately I've been sicker than a dog that's eaten chocolate ice cream, and it may take a real long while to get 100% healthy again. However, I do

High E at Night

2010-06-05T20:19:00.000-05:00

"Five hours later, when we had quit in the afternoon's heat, and after we swam in the chilly pool at Split Rock, we slept in the shade, read in the sun, gazed upon the shivering women who, upon exiting the cold water, were wet and glistening in the sun, and, after we had eaten at the campsite, we headed to do Arrow (5.8) as our warm up to a 5.6 classic just a few minutes down the path." The

The End Game: Epinephrine

2010-05-11T13:16:00.005-05:00

"Jello" on the start of P2 “Yet each man kills the thing he loves, By each let this be heard, Some do it with a bitter look, Some with a flattering word. The coward does it with a kiss, The brave man with a sword!” – Oscar Wilde, The Ballad of Reading Gaol (written in prison). When the day finished, I wondered what the crux really was. The past two days had been hard, and not just physically. I

Guidebook: Red Rocks Vegas - The Gobbler (5.10a), Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a), Frogland (5.8), Epinephrine (5.9 IV)

2010-05-11T13:09:00.001-05:00

Eldorado Canyon Black Velvet Canyon Frogland (5.8) - Six Pitches - Trad - Mixed Anchors Approach: Walk along the road until it curves left. Go straight on the obvious path and follow that for about 15 minutes. Look for a cairn and a path that heads off left. Take that trail and all of its switch backs to the base of Whiskey Peak, heading right to the start of the climb. Frogland starts on a

Guidebook: Shelf Road - Cactus Cliffs: Crynoid Corner (5.7), Banana Split (5.10a), Slicer (10b), Black Man's Burden (5.10b), The Killer Toupee (5.10b), Gabby (5.10c), Glass Babies (5.10c), The Alignment (5.10c), 3/4 Ton (5.10c), Axis of Evil (5.10c)

2010-05-10T15:19:00.001-05:00

Shelf Road Cactus Cliffs Approach: As of late April 2010, the road to the parking area at the base of Catcus Cliffs is closed to public traffic. Climbers must park at The Bank day use area. From The Bank parking area, walk down the road that is to the right when entering the lot. Take the first trail on the right and head down to the wash staying to the left where the trail T's. Then cross

Guidebook: Gunks - Easy Keyhole (5.2), Bunny (5.6)

2010-05-10T14:29:00.017-05:00

Easy Keyhole (5.2) - Two Pitches - Trad - Tree Anchors Approach: One of the first climbs in the Trapps, walk down the carriage road until you get to the first obvious face with climbing on it (obviously on the left-hand side). Walk up the first path (has stone steps) after this face (around the corner from the arrete) to a thin crack on the left and an off-width on the right. Both are within 10

Guidebook: Eldorado Canyon - Washington Irving (5.6), Chianti (5.8+), The Unsaid (5.9), Next to Nearly (5.9)

2010-05-08T20:58:00.001-05:00

Eldorado Canyon, Eldorado Springs, CO The West Ridge Approach: From the main parking lot just inside the gate, walk across the bridge and head left, staying low to the creek when other trails head up. Continue along until you come to a sign that says the trail ends. Walk past the sign and up a slick but well-worn ramp on rock near the creek. Make a very careful step over the top and downclimb,

Guidebook: 'Gunks - Trapps: Moonlight (5.6), Snooky's Return (5.8)

2010-05-08T17:07:00.007-05:00

'Gunks Trapps Moonlight (5.6) - Two pitches - Trad - Tree anchors: Approach: The path to Moonlight is a long way down the carriage trail toward the end of the Trapps. Follow the path for about 15 minutes until you come to the Andrew Boulder, a large, roof-life boulder that hangs above the trail about seven feet off the ground. Head up the path after that and find a tree at the base just up

Guidebook: Cathedral Ledge - North End: Child's Play (5.6), Kiddy Crack (5.8), Bird's Nest (5.9-), They Died Laughing (5.9)

2010-05-08T15:41:00.001-05:00

Cathedral Ledge The North End Approach: Drive down the Cathedral Ledge road and park in one of the lots just before the gate that marks the start of the road that goes to the top. Walk across the street from the small parking lots to the path marked by the sign. The crag is about 2min up and the right-hand crack at the top of the path is Kiddie Crack (5.7). Child's Play (5.6) - One pitch - 70

Guidebook: 'Gunks - Near Trapps: Grease Gun Groove (5.6), Te Dum (5.7), Alphonse (5.8), Main Line (5.8), Grand Central (5.9), Broken Sling (5.9+), Criss Cross (5.10a), Birdcage (5.10b) Spinal Exam (5.10c)

2010-05-02T13:15:00.000-05:00

'Gunks Near Trapps Approach: Take the path just after the Route 44/55 road sign as one walks downhill away from the Near Trapps Bridge. Routes noted below are arranged according to grade (easiest to hardest) and each has it's own approach directions. Grease Gun Groove (5.6) - Two pitches - Trad - Tree anchors: Approach: Walk down the Near Trapps path for about seven minutes, passing

Preparing for Epinephrine: days one and two

2010-04-21T10:08:00.000-05:00

When a turkey decided to fly into my windshield a few days before I headed west for three weeks, it never crossed my mind that Dreams of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) might not be the best route to start my Red Rocks trip. Our goal was Epinephrine (5.9 IV) - that towering classic in Black Velvet Canyon with the intimidating chimneys and the descent that has forced many into an unplanned bivy - so we chose

Living and Climbing in Maine

2010-04-05T12:13:00.001-05:00

I've been away for too long, and yet it sometimes feels as if it isn't long enough. My roots are firmly planted in Downeast Maine, but I haven't watered them for years. When I decided to go halfway home - to the Midcoast instead of Downeast - I walked away from the young, dynamic, and fast atmosphere in Boston to the slow, easy-going pace that settles one's soul into a peaceful lullabye of

Guidebook: Camden, ME - Fireman's Ladder (5.5), Natural History (5.7-), Out of Gas (5.8), Every Second Counts (5.9), Arrete (5.10b), Prospero (5.10c), Dream Weaver (5.10c), Ariel (5.11d)

2010-04-05T11:03:00.005-05:00

Camden, Maine - The Rampart Approach: Find the carriage road trailhead (small, brown side with a brown gate blocking the road) at about 184 / 185 Mountain Street (Rt 52) in Camden, ME, and park along the side of the road without blocking the gate. Hike in along the blue blazed carriage trail for about 15-20 min, crossing two wooden bridges. Then cross a log bridge (you'll have to wind back to

Guidebook: Camden, ME - Charlotte's Crack (5.7), The Web (5.6), Harmonic Convergence (5.7+), White Streak (5.9 R),

2010-04-05T10:06:00.004-05:00

Camden, Maine - Barrett's Cove Approach: From the parking lot off Mountain Street (Rt 52) in Camden, which is a large, paved pullout across the street from Lake Megunticook, take the path on the right side of the parking lot (if facing the cliff). Follow the path up to the left to get near the base. For climbs on the left side, continue left. For climbs in the middle, head up right on a

Good Partners

2010-03-16T11:48:00.001-05:00

A snippet: "Wow," I said. "That looks tough." "Yeah, and I don't see where there's gear at all going over the roof or around it." "There's gotta be something," I said. "It's not 5.8X." "I don't even see the bolt that protects the crux!" Click here for the rest of the story on Climbing.com Click here for all Red Rocks 2010 photos

Guidebook: Red Rocks - Olive Oil (5.7) and Black Magic (5.8)

2010-03-06T20:28:00.015-05:00

Juniper Canyon - Rose Tower Olive Oil (5.7) - Five Pitches - Trad - Gear Anchors Approach: From the Pine Creek Canyon parking lot, head out on the path out of the lot toward Pine Creek Canyon. When you get to the homestead, walk about 25 feet past the old foundation and take the path that heads left toward the creek. If there's water, cross the creek (if not, just cross the dry bed), and follow

The Start of a Grand Adventure-Day 6, The Final Day

2009-12-23T10:10:00.002-05:00

One moment I'm clinging to this crumbling rock face and the next I'm falling. I'd fallen before but I knew this was different. I wasn't stopping. I hear a crunch, metal deformation at high speed, then a startled, "Fuck!” "Busterman" flashes into view, but only briefly. We're both falling, accelerating, visions of the world flashing around while we tumble through the air. The talus comes into view

The Start of a Grand Adventure-Day 5, Disappointment Peak

2009-12-16T13:01:00.008-05:00

We slept in today. There was no reason to rush. We'd tagged our goal (Grand Teton), the summit we'd been dreaming about since the trip was conceived, so we slept in a little bit, had an unhurried breakfast, and started breaking down camp to move down hill to the Meadows camping zone. Our goal for today was Irene's Arete 5.8 III, A nice six pitch climb that with a little scrambling and hiking

Reconnaissance in South America

2009-12-09T11:24:00.002-05:00

The flight from Toronto to Santiago was a cold, restless twelve hours of tossing and turning in my seat.Click here for the rest of the story over on Climbing.com. This post is about my recent trip to Chile and Argentina, and the obstacles and opportunities I found about and within the climbing community.

The Start of a Grand Adventure-Day 4, Full Exum Ridge

2009-10-31T13:54:00.029-05:00

The alarm went off early, too early. I usually don't feel sleepy, but at four in the morning all I could think about was skipping the climbing and taking a rest day. It seemed like "Busterman" was in similar condition and so we lay there for a few minutes before we convinced ourselves to crawl out into the cold morning air. I stepped out into the darkness and couldn't see the stars. That was a

The Start of A Grand Adventure Day 3, the Approach From Hell

2009-10-21T19:34:00.028-05:00

My "on again, off again" sleep pattern held true until right before my alarm went off. I looked at the watch and it was almost 5:30am. We wanted to get an early start for permits but I wanted to get an even earlier start so I could catch the sunrise on the mountains. So I crawled out of my nylon cocoon and quietly exited the cabin with camera in hand. It wasn't ridiculously cold but I was just

The Start of a Grand Adventure - Day 2, The Drive

2009-10-06T19:52:00.025-05:00

My eyes blinked open at the white, popcorn ceiling. I reached down and grabbed my phone off the wood floor; it was still half an hour before we'd agreed to wake up and start getting ready. The tiny screen flickered while I surfed the Internet. After checking my e-mail and browsing for a little while, I played some phone games until my bladder forced me to empty it. A little bit later I heard "

The Start of a Grand Adventure - Day One

2009-09-23T19:09:00.018-05:00

"I'm going to climb the Grand!" I practically screamed into the phone. "Iowa" was not as happy that I was going to be gone but she was happy that I was finally happy. It had not been a sure thing. "Busterman" was good with his time away from home but I was worried things would fall apart with people covering for me at my jobs. The time of departure was getting closer and things came together and

A Weekend of Debauchery

2009-09-23T09:29:00.004-05:00

It was to be a one-day assault on the 'Gunks. Saturday called for beautiful sun and Sunday called for rain. There was a hint of flirtation in the air and enough childish innocence amongst the gathering of thirty somethings to make gizzard blush. But we weren't there for anything but the climbing...or were we?- "Caboose": So "Blow"'s at a bachelor party down at Foxwoods.- "Ratherbe": Is he going

Guidebook: Gunks - Double Crack

2009-09-23T09:28:00.003-05:00

Double Crack (5.8) - Two Pitches (recommended) - Trad - Mixed AnchorsApproach: Take the fifth trail up to the left after the overhanging, roof-like Andrew Boulder (about a 10-min walk down the Carriage Trail after the Uberfall area). At the top, head right and up hill to an arrete that has a low roof on the left and an obvious vertical crack system on the right face.Pitch One (5.8) - 75 feet -

The First Time

2009-09-23T09:25:00.002-05:00

Well, I've been injured much of the past few weeks, so I thought I'd give you guys something to read. Sorry for the delay, but I can't write much about climbing when I'm strapped into a boot that's meant to keep my ankle from twisting. I am hoping to get out this weekend if only to remember what rock feels like again. In the meantime, here is a short fiction story that I wrote last week...He

Ankles Galore!

2009-08-18T11:36:00.003-05:00

E'ffn' hell.For various reasons, I haven't been climbing the past few weeks. Mostly it is because my ankle still hasn't healed well from my fall on Cannon in the middle of August. That's helped me to justify not climbing while "Ratherbe" went off to the Tetons on a backpacking trip for two weekends and then again no climbing over Labor Day weekend (because of how my vacation / holiday time works

Ratherbe's Return

2009-08-14T19:53:00.006-05:00

This wasn't looking good. We were at the base of Cannon, ready to tick off Moby Grape (5.8 III), the last great classic on Cannon that we really wanted, when we boldly declared there would be no rescue that day. We then struggled up Reppy's Crack on the first pitch, cruised the second pitch, and I, just under a half second away from pulling away from the Triangle Roof on the third pitch, slipped

Guidebook: North Conway - The Saigons (5.8), Bird's Nest (5.9-), Children's Crusade (5.9)

2009-08-13T19:52:00.001-05:00

Click here for the Cathedral Ledge index and here for the Whitehorse Ledge index.Click here for all Guidebook postsClick here for all Cathedral posts and here for all Whitehorse posts.Whitehorse LedgeChildren's Crusade (5.9) - Three pitches - Mixed trad and sport - Bolted anchors- Approach: From the lower parking lot, walk up the road past the hotel and find the path at the bend in the road. Turn

The Wrath of Cannon

2009-08-09T19:51:00.004-05:00

I've now been on Cannon four times, and can officially state that there is a pattern of some sort of failure. Jeremiah and I were lucky enough to have a guide and client climbing below us the first time we tackled the great alpine mountain of the northeast. Route finding was an issue that day, and the guide was instrumental in getting us up the proper pitches even though we hadn't hired him. When

Today, I need to climb

2009-07-31T13:40:00.000-05:00

It’s no use. There’s so much turmoil in my life at the moment that it almost isn’t worth dealing with it all until something settles down. But then there’s the pressure knowing that if I don’t buckle down and deal with it all, all at once, that there will be missed opportunities that could affect me for years to come.See the rest here.

The Brotherhood of the Rope

2009-07-26T13:00:00.002-05:00

"I am immensely happy, for I have felt the rope between us. We are linked for life. We have approached the stars together and at such heights, the air has a special savor...Together we have known apprehension, uncertainty and fear; but of what importance is all that? For it was only up there that we discovered many things of which we had previously known nothing: a joy that was new to us,

The Silver Lining

2009-07-20T12:14:00.011-05:00

I've wanted to taste the adventure of climbing for a long time. But just as in life, I've also always kept things as well mapped out as possible. After all, what's the point of attempting success if you aren't going to actually succeed? Advanced planning is probably the most important tool that I have with regards to success. Whenever I've succeeded easily or even spectacularly I can always look

Guidebook: Gunks - Horseman (5.5), Easy Baby Link-up(5.6), Hans Puss (5.7)

2009-07-20T12:12:00.005-05:00

Click here for all 'Gunks postsClick here for all Guidebook postsClick here to return to the 'Gunks Route IndexHorseman (5.5) - One pitch - Trad - Gear anchor- Approach: In the Uberfall area, look for the obvious right-facing corner that starts just right of the first large roof along the carriage trail. The corner itself is about 30 feet up and is capped by a roof.- Horseman (5.5) - 110 Feet:

A Passionless Weekend

2009-07-12T21:37:00.012-05:00

Rain, rain, rain, judging a comp, rain, rain, rain, grandfather in the hospital, rain, rain, rain, elbow tendinitis, rain, rain, rain...I climbed in the gym last week for the first time in a little less than a month. The body felt fine but the endurance was whacked beyond dead. Still, there's been a weird difference between my outdoor and indoor climbing this year - they've reversed roles.In past

Guidebook: North Conway - Inferno (5.8), Hotter than Hell (5.9), Toe Crack (5.8)

2009-07-11T18:21:00.008-05:00

Click here for the Cathedral Ledge index and here for the Whitehorse Ledge index.Click here for all Guidebook postsClick here for all Cathedral posts and here for all Whitehorse posts.Whitehorse LedgeInferno (5.8) - Three pitches - Trad - Gear anchors- Approach: OK, so this is a bit adventurous, and not all of the signs, ribbons, and path markings that are mentioned in the guidebooks are still

The Newest Climbing.com Blog Post Link

2009-07-09T10:42:00.004-05:00

Hey folks,With the rain and all that crap going on outside the past month, things have been slow around here recently. But the weather has turned and I'm heading back to the 'Gunks this weekend and I promise more is to come.Also, Jeremiah has two posts on the way, too. Can't wait for those.For now, however, my latest post on Climbing.com is up. It is about the experience of being a judge at comps

Climbing.com

2009-06-03T14:31:00.001-05:00

Hey folks,I just wanted to let you know two things: 1) that Greg and Jeremiah's Climbing Blog is definitely not going away and; 2) another venue has been added to the list of places to read about our adventures.We first started out as Greg's Climbing Blog, which was sporadically published with a few of Greg's climbing adventures. Then Jeremiah came aboard and he added a different flavor. Instead

Bonnie's and Birdland; the pump that keeps on giving

2009-06-03T13:47:00.010-05:00

We had two goals in mind: "Birdland" and "Bonnie's Roof", and we had a strategy to bring it all together. Unfortunately, the lingering effects can still be felt."Birdland" was a leftover goal from last year. I had fallen on both pitches, but I knew what I had to do this time. The moves on the first pitch, the mental crux where one preses the left foot on a slick knob and leans back on good side

The Moab Diary: Final Day

2009-06-02T19:36:00.017-05:00

I rolled out of my bed into the morning light. The thoughts of the upcoming day weighed heavily on my mind. Our objective for the day was Fine Jade, a beautiful 5.11 crack system moving gracefully up the end of the Rectory formation. It's a really fantastic climb that...what the hell was I doing? I'm, not a 5.11 climber. Sure I'd climbed obscure routes not published in a guidebook that people

Guidebook: Gunks - Layback (5.5), Ursula (5.5), In the Groove (5.6), Birdland (5.8), Yellow Belly (5.8), Bonnie's Roof (5.9)

2009-06-01T15:13:00.003-05:00

Click here for all 'Gunks postsClick here for all Guidebook postsClick here to return to the 'Gunks Route IndexLayback (5.5) - Two pitches - Trad - Gear anchors- Approach: Walk along the Near Trapps trail, about 40 feet past the large roof system to a chimney below another roof system that is about 20 feet up.- Pitch One (5.5) - Trad - Gear Anchor - 60 Feet: Climb the chimney to the block. Move

One goal shy of a hat trick

2009-05-30T19:27:00.009-05:00

I have no clue what's going on. Seriously, there's been a complete reversal of everything I've been as a climber the past several years. The world has been turned nearly upside down, and this is a good thing.Yeah, yeah. You've all heard about my ankle sprain, and you've all heard about how it's held me back in the gym. I'm flailing on 10a's in there and falling on 5.8s by the end of the night.

Guidebook: Gunks - Gelsa (5.4), Three Pines (5.3), Sixish (5.5), Squiggles (5.5), Son of Easy O (5.8),

2009-05-27T15:49:00.015-05:00

Click here for all 'Gunks postsClick here for all Guidebook postsClick here to return to the 'Gunks Route IndexThree Pines (5.3) - Two / Three pitches - Trad - Tree / Bolted anchors- Approach: Take the third trail after the East Trapps Connector Trail that goes down to the road on the right. Head left at the top toward a right-facing corner that is across from a left-facing flake / corner / cave

Nothing like a bit of choss to kick my booty

2009-05-20T14:27:00.005-05:00

A year later and we returned. The heat wasn't so bad as last time, but the crowds were. I was thankful, though, that the man who had put up many of the routes was there to show me around.It was a weekend off, but I wanted to get out. An evening fundraiser kept me from playing too hard, but an early start would suffice. We drove until the road narrowed, and then we drove some more until the speed

A rainy start turns out great

2009-05-20T11:05:00.011-05:00

"Ratherbe" and I hadn't climbed outside together since our last adventure in 2008, and I had only one weekend outside on real rock, Moab excepted because, well, I didn't actually climb and what I did get up wasn't real rock. I wanted to take things easy, but deep down inside I felt more confident than I ever had been before. My strength had not yet returned after a long recovery from an ankle

Guidebook: Gunks - Maria (5.6+), Arrow (5.8), Ant's Line (5.9)

2009-05-19T20:45:00.005-05:00

Click here for all 'Gunks postsClick here for all Guidebook postsClick here to return to the 'Gunks Route IndexMaria (5.6+) - Three Pitches - Trad - Gear anchor- Approach: Take third marked trail and head right where it splits. The second pitch of Maria is the massive left-facing corner on the right. The route starts well to the left of that, however.- Pitch One (5.5) - Trad - Gear anchor - 80

The Moab Diary: Two Grade III's in a Day or Castleton is my Bitch

2009-05-19T20:41:00.029-05:00

I woke before the sun was fully poking it's fiery head above the horizon. "Utah" was lazily sleeping the day away so I decided to get my breakfast down and start organizing my own gear before I woke him up. As I sat in the sand I watched the sun struggle over the horizon. The cold prism of Castleton Tower slowly brightened to a fiery read as the sky exploded in sunset hues of red, purple, and

Guidebook - 'Gunks - Middle Earth, Snowpatch, Thin Slabs, Bloody Mary

2009-05-18T18:52:00.000-05:00

Click here for all 'Gunks postsClick here for all Guidebook postsClick here to return to the 'Gunks Route IndexMiddle Earth (5.5) - Three Pitches (only the first shown at the present time) - Trad - Gear anchor- Approach: Take the ninth trail up to the left after the East Trapps Connector Trail (which is the only path that goes down to the right). Fade to the right where it splits.- Pitch One (5.5

The Moab Diary: Going back is yet another battle

2009-05-17T09:23:00.007-05:00

- "Utah": Hey dude bra, I'm in Vegas and heading to the Creek soon. Give me a call and we'll meet up to do something gnar in the desert. After listening to the message I knew I'd go back. How could I resist? The last time was a blast, the weather was prime and I hadn't climbed with "Utah" since we worked together just south of Poke 'O Moonshine in the 'Daks. There was just one small problem, I

Plugging for the first time...without shoes

2009-05-15T15:14:00.010-05:00

To say that I'm bold is akin to saying I love milk, and I haven't had a glass of milk in over a decade.But I have been suffering from an ankle sprain the past few months and this weekend was the first time since 2008 that I've plugged gear. Add on a complete lack of strength and endurance due to inactivity, and I should have been a complete head case my first time out. But I was feeling competent

The Moab Diary: The final "push"

2009-05-07T13:52:00.007-05:00

"Jello's" comments in Italics - which happens to be the bulk of this post I didn't want to wake up. It was our last day and I was pretty tired. Why should I get up? Maybe I'll just lie here forever, in my desert grave. A few minutes later and I gave up. I had to piss anyway. I ambled over to the designated urinal and watered the lawn. I looked around. The dihedral above the campground dominated

The Moab Diary: Our Grade III Climb (day three)

2009-04-29T13:54:00.009-05:00

We'd had two days to get to the top of River Tower, and we had failed. But our line was fixed for when we arrived at the start of Day Three. This was serious now. It was time for us finish the damn thing. We threw ourselves into the car, and when "Jello" turned the key - cough, cough, cough...rrrr, rrrr, rrrr...MOTHER - This wasn't happening. After all we had put into this route, the damn car

The Moab Diary: Our Grade III Climb (day two)

2009-04-24T10:20:00.019-05:00

Jello's comments in italics I walked out of the tent and saw our shit blown all over the campsite. I was the only one awake and was discouraged. Honestly though, I don't remember hearing the windstorm because I was sleeping pretty good by this point, but our stuff was everywhere. Mostly it was "Sungam's", but I knew it would take some time to get our own stuff together, too. Today was my

The Moab Diary: Our Grade III Climb (day one)

2009-04-22T12:31:00.006-05:00

We awoke slowly. There wasn't much sense in rushing because I wanted to change campsites. The Jeeps were annoying me, and the rocky parking lot was doing a wonderful job of delaying the healing of my sprained ankle. Besides, "Sungam" had an open spot at another campground upriver and I figured there'd be more of a scene around his fire pit than what he had in the middle of 4X4-fest. Jello's

The Moab Diary: Learning to Aid and "Jello"'s Big Day

2009-04-13T19:10:00.016-05:00

"Jello"'s comments in italicsMy first night in Moab was a peaceful one. I can't say the same for the morning.Some of us awoke to the growling of off-road vehicles, while others had their sleep broken by the grunting of several people making last minute adjustments to their bicycles prior to the adventure race that began 100 yards down the road. "Ready, set, GO!" blasted through the cool, desert

The Moab Diary: Getting there is half the adventure (part three)

2009-04-12T14:34:00.009-05:00

Click her for Part One and Part Two"Jello's" Comments in italics"Jello" lives no more than two hours away from Denver International Airport (DIA). In fact, on a good day, it only takes him 90 minutes. Thursday was not a good day.A lot was on my mind while I drove through the snow towards DIA. Was my aid gear from Fish, the gear I desperately needed for this trip, going to get to my house in time?

The Moab Diary: Getting there is half the adventure (part two)

2009-04-12T09:13:00.009-05:00

Click here for Part OneLate January and early February brought weather that would have made the Iceman do a jig. Unfortunately, not everyone is as graceful on a sheet of ice and he is. I grew up in Maine and have learned how to walk on ice on flat, hilly, and uneven surfaces. But sometimes you walk on ice, and sometimes it - SLIP! THUD! CRACK! OWWWW!!!I sat on the sloping entrance to the driveway

The Moab Diary: Getting there is half the adventure (part one)

2009-04-12T07:44:00.004-05:00

I must be ill. Sleep has been hard to come by the past few months, and I feel it in my soul every time I wake up. My diet is likely the best it has ever been, and yet my doctor told me a couple of months ago that my blood pressure was higher than normal. This is the first time that's ever happened to me. Why?My plan was the same as it had been the past few winters: to take no time off during my

Why I'm More Famous Than...

2009-01-01T13:54:00.013-05:00

My final outdoor climbing weekend was one of the most interesting weekends I've ever had in all of my climbing experience."Ratherbe" and I knew it was going to be cool for what was my final weekend outside. We were also certain that the 'Gunks were going to be busy due to what seemed to be the last stretch of warm weather for a while and a fairly large contingency of 'Gunks greats coming together

Colorado Day Ten: The Final Day - OR - The poor, poor deer

2008-12-13T12:18:00.010-05:00

It's cold in Boston as I write this. The wind is howling at 20mph sustained, and the temps are hovering at a cool 17 degrees. I don't even want to imagine what the wind chill is like. My fingers are nearly frozen, and the keyboard isn't making life easier with its stiff keys and poor response. I wish I was back in Colorado, just like on our last day of climbing when it was hot enough to split the

Colorado Day Nine: Getting Shelved

2008-12-10T22:02:00.016-05:00

We were supposed to go to the Black Canyon this weekend, but not all worked out as planned. We decided instead to do a couple of day trips in the area, and one of those trips was to Shelf Road, a sport climbing area with a dozen cliffs, a few dozen crags, and hundreds of bolted, sharp, limestone routes just waiting to be pulled by the two studs that "Jello" and I are.Shelf Road - Cannon City,

Colorado Day Eight: Rain, rain go away...

2008-12-09T22:02:00.002-05:00

With the near miss that we had the day before, and with the rain that dumped brief buckets down upon the region's sandstone, we decided to head out for a small hike around one of the newly developed climbing areas in Colorado Springs: Red Rocks (not the concert venue, just to be clear).This was an unintended day off. In fact, when "Jello" and I first planned this trip we had no days off planned.

Colorado Day Seven: Back to the Garden, Nearly the Original One

2008-12-08T16:08:00.003-05:00

"Jello"'s comments in ItalicsAnd so it was back to the Garden for one of our final days of the trip. Our plan was to hit New Era (5.7) in the morning, a route that "Jello" had free-soloed earlier this summer, and one of two other options that we had also planned for that afternoon or early evening. It turned out that we got ahead of ourselves.Garden of the GodsGrey Wall or Kindergarten RockNew

Colorado Day Six

2008-12-07T16:06:00.001-05:00

And on the sixth day, we rested. But here's some photos from the week anyway. Enjoy...The Gods following "Jello" Greg learns about sandstone "Jello" on New Era Our mascot "Jacque" The warm sun A storm brewing at Shelf Road SMILE!

Colorado Day Five: Taking our Lumps

2008-12-06T22:43:00.005-05:00

OEEEEEEEYA!!!EHEHEHEHEH...OEEEEYAAAA!!!Thud, thud, thud EEEEYOOOOOONNNKKK!!!NEHNEHNENENEH...Thud, thump, THUD"Jello's" comments in italicsWe arrived in Estes Park late, and had little idea as to where we were going. I remember arriving in town and thinking two completely opposite things: 1) that Estes Park was a quaint little town, not unlike the one I grew up in and; 2) the causeway (North Saint

Angry Mountain

2008-12-02T22:55:00.011-05:00

I was numb watching the mitten slide away down the steep coulior. "Please stop...come on stop...stop you piece of shit. Fuck you...fuck you fucking mountain from hell." I don't generally personify mountains because part of the reason I like them is due to their indifference, but whole trip had been a struggle from top to bottom and here I was less than five hundred feet from the top watching one

Colorado Day Four: Confidence in Eldorado Canyon

2008-11-15T10:08:00.013-05:00

Jello's comments in italicsMy body stiffened the instant I woke up, and I held my breath. I would have been less unsettled had I not heard the thumping of feet on the other side of the wall. An uneasy tightness gripped my jaw, and I struggled to remain quiet while my lungs pleaded for air. Not wanting to move an inch, I let my eyes do the inspection: a naked desk sat in front of a set of

Not So Shocking Lessons Learned: Chasing Demons in the Gunks - Part Three

2008-10-26T10:01:00.015-05:00

The past weekend had turned into a mixed bag of extremes. First there was the frightful glory on CCK, but that came at the expense of waiting two hours for the final two pitches. And then there was the slaying of Main Line (5.8) and Hold the Mayo (5.9), but they were followed by the failure on Birdland (5.8+). We battled cool mornings, poor restaurant service, and were blessed with warm

My Rocky: Chasing Demons in the Gunks - Part Two

2008-10-25T14:54:00.012-05:00

The day before had been good to us, and I felt particularly strong when the morning sun finally warmed the life into me enough to allow me to rack up. "This will be my shot at personal glory," I thought while envisioning myself coming out of nowhere to conquer climbs that had previously held me down. "This weekend will be a success, and I will not fall."Near TrappsMain Line (5.8) - Two Pitches -

Not Running in Place: Chasing Demons in the Gunks - Part One

2008-10-21T08:15:00.014-05:00

We all have demons. They live not just among us but within us, and they torture us from the inside and out such that when we're so outwardly mean and cruel that failure as punishment is merely a destination on the way to destiny itself. This was the first day to tackle those demons that had haunted me for over a year, and I firmly grasped the opportunity knowing that the cold weather would soon

Colorado Day Three: Boulder Bandits

2008-09-24T21:24:00.024-05:00

"Jello"'s comments in italicsLet's start by saying that Boulder is not one of "Jello"'s favorite places. While I'll let him discuss his political appreciation of the town, I will go ahead and beat him to the punch regarding the camping situation and then get into what turned out to be an interesting day of climbing.Boulder CanyonWith Greg's crack lesson being over, we decided to head to Boulder

Colorado Day Two: Turkey Rocks (the education of Greg continues)

2008-09-24T17:21:00.018-05:00

Jello's comments in italics"Jello" has never been shy about ragging me for not being a very strong crack climber. Whenever we've done anything resembling a crack on the east coast, he has always felt the need to yell at me for searching for holds out on the face. "Stay in the crack you wimp!" (or other variations thereof) was a common taunt that neither of us could avoid: he wanted to make sure

Colorado Day One: Garden of the Gods (an introduction to soft sandstone)

2008-09-23T20:32:00.014-05:00

"Jello"'s comments in italicsEveryone needs a break every now and again. While I'm not disadvantaged in any realistic manner, I certainly have felt under the gun the past year or so. Life changes do make things interesting and challenging, especially against the pressures of expectations. And I've worked hard to maintain some semblance of progress in my life. Despite some important setbacks, I've

The Black Void

2008-09-11T15:34:00.000-05:00

My throat is dry as I thrash up the gully, branches dismissively smacking me in the face. I look up with the sun at my back and focus ahead at a wearying task, only a few hundred feet to the rim. We hiked into the Black Canyon at nine this morning, cruising down the SOB Gully. From the position of the sun it appears to be almost four. We must have been climbing for about five hours even though we

Gecko's First Trad Experience

2008-09-05T21:59:00.011-05:00

It took a few months, but "Ratherbe", "KITT", and I finally convinced "Gecko" to commit to a full weekend of learning to trad climb. To be fair, he did commit on another occasion at Cathedral, but it rained and thus he didn't get a chance to even learn how to place gear. But getting him to commit to a full weekend has been a task, mainly because he's training to qualify for the Boston Marathon

I Recently Had a Near Life Experience

2008-09-04T11:43:00.004-05:00

So my trips have been slowing down as of late. After a day trip to Grand Junction and a personal trip to the Black Canyon I was back in the Springs. The boss left for his own trip to the Wind River Range earlier and so I was basically in charge. I also had 5 trips that week. Pretty good.So one of my trips was with an older woman doing multi-pitch climbs in the Garden. This was a great trip. We

Snakes, Rain, Thunder, Lightening, Delays, and 10 Pitches...huh?

2008-08-17T16:55:00.003-05:00

We were supposed to have gone to the Adirondacks this weekend. We had two campgrounds booked for two nights each for a trip that was supposed to take us to Poke-O-Moonshine, Pitchoff, and somewhere in Keene Valley (Washbowl? Beer Walls? Chapel Pond?). It didn't matter where we climbed, all that mattered was that we were getting away for a long weekend to enjoy a few classics in areas that see