Friday, April 28, 2000

Guidebook - Moab - River Tower

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Wyrick-Merrill (C1 5.8 III)

- Approach:
From Moab, drive out on Route 128 (River Road) toward the Hittle Bottom campground area. After the turn-off toward the Fishers, and before Hittle Bottom (near mile marker 22), find the yellow bar blocking vehicles from driving off-road. Hike toward the towers that are directly ahead, keeping the long mound of dirt to your right. A path will emerge that will lead to a Juniper Tree. There is another, more obvious, initial path that fades to the left, and that path works, too.

Saturday, April 22, 2000

Guidebook - Moab - Wall Street (Schoolroom area)

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Wall Street:

Grama and the Green Suede Shoes (5.7) - One pitch - Trad - Gear anchor - 60/90 feet depending on where you anchor
- Part of the School Room area of Wall Street (near Lacto Mangulation (5.10b)), and across the street from a parking sign.
- Climb the chimney / offwidth straight to the top. Either exit right at the bolted anchors on the route to the right or finish 30 feet above that at the boulder.
- Descend by either rapping off the bolts or walking off to the right (if facing the road) on the slab.

Top 40 (5.8) - One Pitch - Trad - Bolted anchor - 60 feet
- Part of the School Room area (near Lacto Mangulation (5.10b)), and across the street from a parking sign.
- Climb the left-facing corner with a crack at the start. It is possible to work up to the right to gain the bolted anchor for Skeletonic (5.11d) if you want to set up a top-rope.
- Descend by lowering or rapping off the chains

Static Cling (5.11a) - One Pitch - Trad - Bolted anchor - 70 feet
- Part of the School Room area (near Lacto Mangulation (5.10b)), and across the street from a parking sign.
- Climb the left-facing corner to a thin crack system just below a roof. Fade left under the roof and head straight up to the anchors.
- Descend by lowering or rapping off the chains

Skeletonic (5.11d) - One Pitch - Mixed trad and sport - Bolted anchor - 80 feet
- Part of the School Room area (near Lacto Mangulation (5.10b)), and across the street from a parking sign. Starts in a corner next to a tree (tree was there as of April 2009)
- Climb the right-facing corner up the crack until it fades to a seam. Climb through the bolts and step left at the top when you can gain left-hand face.
- Descend by lowering or rapping off the chains